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Travels of Rose & Tom on S/V Sojourn

May 05

More Antigua - April

MORE Antigua & Guadeloupe Travel Logs:

 

It seems that I was having a thing with animals during my hikes while Tom was gone.  I told of the baby goat story earlier.  Well I must sound like a mother goat as Vicki witnessed 2 small goats came across hill toward me thinking I was their mother.  They stopped immediately and were very upset providing a shreaking Bahhh.  The real mother responded and off they went in the other direction.  It was very enduring but created a challenge for the young.

 

Then there was the bull on top a high hill that was tied to a lone tree but rope was wrapped around such that it couldn’t get to any food.  I wasn’t sure how often the owner came to check on so thought I would help it out.  Well it was as stubborn as I can be and was difficult to chase it round and round as it looked like it was going to charge so I had to use my farming skills!  Another hike we found an abandoned horse that was tied short to a tree such that it couldn’t get any food nor water.  It was barely alive and standing.  We walked closely to it to untie it from tree.  It made no jestures of this action and immediately walked toward grass.  We had some water so poured into our hats for it to drink.  Then it started walking briskly toward and down the road as if it was going back home.  It stopped in an area that had more water and softer grass so we left it there and walked toward the horse stable down the road to inform them of this.  They said this happens a lot and would bring it some food/water.

 

I did finally do some volunteer work at Cobbs Cross Primary Gov't thru Principle Mrs. Barton Principle. She still hadn’t spoken to her superiors but I did assist teachers abit one day but mostly I helped the library headquarters staff (2 women) come and reorganize the library.  This library looked like it hadn’t been used in quite some time as it looked like a storage facility for anything they didn’t know what to do with.  This is a shame as the Gov’t had created programs to promote reading.  The staff had mentioned that its difficult to promote proper English as most of the parents don’t speak it.  Initially the school wouldn’t allow their slang in the classroom but is difficult to enforce which is why reading is so important.  So we cleaned, reorganized and removed MANY OLD and added some new books.  As they were trying to figure out what to do with the old books, I mentioned that since this is the start of a 2 week spring break that maybe we should let the children take what they want.  It was amazing to watch the children rummage thru the books.  The energy amongst the children became a war on who could grab the most.  But then we suggested that they couldn’t take any more than their backpacks could hold and to share with their friends.  Well most of the books were gone so that temporarily saved the garbage dump. The teachers had a potluck lunch for us so was able to explore more of the local food and juice drink.  It was great!   I found it interesting that many of the locals had never been on a boat before nor spoken to anyone that lived on a sailboat.  They asked some questions of me after I introduced myself but have learned that most are not as curious as me as I asked them questions about their lives.

 

My folding bike was locked next to the security guard building.  I got to know 2 female security guards (Andrea & Keisha) that were teaching me how to communicate like locals.  I brought Andrea onto our sailboat as she had never been on one before.  She was shocked about how everything in a house could fit down below.  I told her that most sailboats are a lot bigger than ours.  Keisha spoke of trying to find a way to crew on the boats and travel so I suggested she talk to Janes Yacht service to see what needs to be done.

 

Lesson One:

To Greet -- whatgwan or howyasay

Response -- meseeif or itday

 

I did meet many locals.  Oliver (the park service employee that worked at the garbage area) whose nephew and brothers girlfriend were severly burned (75 to 90 percent) due to using race fuel to start the barbeque.  Cruisers and locals reached out and assisted in providing funds.  It was sad to hear the story from Oliver as this women has 2 small children.  Joyce and Carl’s friend Elizabeth who works at the Dockyard laundry where I will be bringing gift bag to sister in Dominica.  Dutch who moved back and trying to start a outboard service business and said to call if I had any problems.  Etc.

 

Many cruiser got hit by debit card (ATM) fraud in Antigua with thousands of dollars taken from our bank accounts.  We finally got the police and local Antigua Bank to alert heardquarters and attempt to fix the problem.  So a lot of us were scrambling to figure out how to get money and file reports back in various countries.  I was fortunate that Tom could handle this back in MN and Vicki brought down a new credit card (as that had been cancelled a month before due to perceived fraud).  So in future we should get money via debit card by seeing a bank teller.

 

Vicki Staudte came to visit while Tom was away which was AWESOME!  After a few days of cruisers parties/games, we decided to leave for Barbuda.  Prior to leaving the diesel didn't want to start so had to pump it a few times and then it started. Was abit worried initially as I thought I may have to bleed the fuel pump.  We had 2 days of great sailing Mon/Tues 13nm from Falmouth to Deep Bay Antigua and then 30nm from Deep Bay to Low Bay Barbuda. We tried to do too much Wed as we walked in water and some muck on the south side of lagoon 6 miles to village and then back and tried to get into Spanish point but had to tack and decided to be safe and anchor in coco bay for  the evening. While in village (Codrington) the Prime Minister (Spenser) was there and so was the camera crew getting info to promote Barbuda. So there we were walking the street and so they asked us if they could interview us. They were shocked to see 2 women sailing here from Antigua.  Actually they didn’t even think that this was a sailing destination as there are no facilities.  Its true you have to be self sufficient here!  So maybe I should pick up local Antigua paper -- but probably on the news. So lots of stars and heard donkey's bellowing throughout evening so now we have heard wind, church bells, roosters, gulls, goats and donkey's while at various anchorages.  Thursday we snorkeled at Coco Pt (not great) and then after squall came through we motored 4nm to Spanish point around 12:30pm but was still scary as max sea PC charts were way off in how we could pick our way through coral. (nice lesson that we can't go into challenging harbors at night) We loved the LONG beaches and some with pink sand. I downloaded spot report and Tom would send text of Chris marine report (via SSB) to determine how to get out of here and get to north sound Antigua.  We need good sun to get out of here and yet takes 7 hours to get to anchorage in north sound. So abit tricky. I have had my work cut out for me and really would of liked to have Tom here to confirm my thoughts but Vicki and I did GREAT!  WOMEN RULE!  I just realized tonight that I have more travel hours on Sojourn that he does as every summer I would take her out with women/sisters for a few weekends.  At Spanish Pt. we snorkeled during day and then again at night where we saw HUGE lobsters barely able to get out of their hole, a couple spotted dolphin eagle rays and many other fish.

 

After a night of nightmares Thurs. while sleeping in preparation for fears of departing Spanish Point Friday and all its reefs earlier than should due to sun -- but then decided to depart early via east exit as its easier and it was overcast this am. So departed Barbuda at 8ish and got into North Sound - Parham Antigua (village on north side) around 2ish. Broad reaching with various following seas but acceptable and sailed most of way -- Self Steerer Pierre had difficulty but did help. We walked around what was the capital of Anitgua but now abandoned. Then next day we moved to anchorage between Rabbit/Redhead near Great Bird Island which is a bird sanctuary.  Enroute we saw a BIG appearing solo dolphin that must of gotten lost and came inside the reef -- BEAUTIFUL!  We found some great islands behind reef to hike and explore caves and snorkeling wasn't great but okay. But there was a N/NE wave and possible Tropical Wave bringing stronger winds which is reason we came back a day early.

 

After Vicki's departure I sorta rescued a US crew (Lynn) from California off of another solo male sailboat that weren't getting along.  It was during the regatta so both of us were gone most of the day so just told her where the keys were and would usually meet up during the evening Classic Regatta events.  The classics were amazing and how wonderful to be able to walk up to any boat on the docks for a closer view.  RPhurst, Toshtego, etc. hiked to a hill each day for a closer view of the race outside Falmouth.  I could of been crew on a boat but had decided that I wanted to go out on the film boat in order to see all the boats.  It was most interesting as I met Henry who is 85 yrs old and still races however Maribel was in for service so was a spectator this year.  So taught us alot.  We even saw a private spectator sailboat get caught up in the mooring lines of a race committe boat.  There wasn't that much damage but very dramatic as the committee boat had to release from the ball and yet keep track of the ending mark.

 

Honeymoon of Tom's return evening of April 22nd (gone for almost 2 months) lasted four days before the strange events unfolded on Sojourn.  At least we are still talking to each other.   It was great to see and hug him!!  Other cruisers were happy to see their parts, etc.

 

We had a great sail from Antigua to Guadeloupe and now in Les Saintes.  We had heard other sailors that day almost run into a pod of whales but we didn't see any -- Bum!   But boy have we had a challenge with systems the last week while in French speaking countries (Guadeloupe), remote anchorages and without service facilities.  Link Regulator malfunctioned allowing alternator to overcharge the batteries, batteries not holding charge so equalized (all night with generator) to remove sulfate, oil jug leaked into bilge, water jug leaked into freezer, diesel wouldn't start so with assistance from Bruce MN cruiser (once he arrived in same anchorage) determined it was a bad relay so we by passed it temporarily.  Then to make matters worse we thought that since Bruce had a refrig pressure gauge that we should look at our cold plate.  Bruce decided that it needed freon so we added but now it must be over charged as the frig isn't freezing as cold as it had been.  So now we decided we needed internet to call Adler Barber and ask questions BUT we needed to wait for Bruce as he is still up 1 anchorage and has the gauges.  We met up with Daniel Storey after not seeing for 5 months so they offered to store some of our frozen meat that was thawing.  This took us 3 days of trouble shooting and monitoring the gauges and believe we have temporarily succeeded but will have it checked when get to a competent refrigeration technician.  So this is what cruisers do all day!  At least we were anchored at a few beautiful, small French island.  I have to say that I (Rose) DIDN’T handle this very well.  Not sure how much is menopause starting, menstruation after not having for 2 months or dealing with not being able to control outcome!  Regardless I guess I am learning about myself and started reading some self help books.  I have chatted with other women about this type of thing and they agree that challenges like this are much different than dealing with similar stuff when on land.  Thank goodness for other cruisers as its amazing how we help each other!

 

March 22

Antigua while Tom is gone...

Below are random thoughts of what life has been like without Tom in Antigua: 

 

Happy Vernal Equinox…  For you northern neck folks, it means days are getting longer but down here it stays the same.  Very little twilight so dark at 6:30pm so no wonder we go to bed by 9pm.  Every boat has their amp (batteries) and water nazi which may be the reason you go to bed when dark and up with the sun. 

 

Our friend/mother/grandmother/Dorothy/etc. has decided she has had enough with this pancreatic cancer and is ready to leave us when the Lord allows.  We will all miss her wisdom, wit, nurturing, kindness and things that words can't quantify...  She will be in our memories always!  Its been difficult for Tom/I in different ways.  

 

White ibis/igrit return to their night time mangrove area by me during sunset and are usually gone by sunrise.  What’s odd is I often see hawks and a few pelicans flying around during day.

 

This is the first island where the immigration staff I had was really ANGRY to all white cruisers.  I guess this is the closest I have felt of discrimination.  I got caught by not asking enough questions during entrance so I will have to take bus to city offices to get a tourist extension when my 1 month runs out.  This means having to take a bus into city early, to wait in line in hopes to obtain by paying them $150EC.  There is a lot of HUGE BRIT boating wealth that comes here so can understand that they may see me as one of them.

 

I have been forced to go meet more cruisers for social contact and attempt to get involved in the community.  I biked to have 2 discussions with Mrs. Burton, Principle of the Cobbs Cross Primary Gov’t school (grades 1-6) in an attempt to start volunteering by working with possibly 1 teacher that has challenges in their class.  It has been interesting to see how long it takes for the politics/approvals to be completed since its been 2 weeks.  I guess I am the first cruiser to initiate this action so learning patience.  Speaking of patience, I bus to St. John’s with empty propane tank to save $15US as I have more time than money these days.  I wait 45 min to get bus closer to filling station, walk 30 minutes hoping to hitch hike but no luck and then wait 1 hour as they went to lunch early.  I reverse this route which takes most of the day and you ask what we do….

 

I rode my bike on palm Sunday to a catholic service and then briefly to an Anglican mass.  The bike ride was further than expected (up/down hills) as map was wrong but nice to see all the people moving around coming to/from their church.  Enroute back I could hear all the various denominations singing/preaching or evangelizing.  I also stopped and made some childhood (carobs call it platting) braid with palm and gave it to 89 yr old friend "Christibell" who couldn't go to church as had flu/cold, to another elderly lady "Alice" that make tarmarine seed jewelry at t-shirt market, to security people that had to work and watch my folding bike, to other cruisers as they gave me alot of palms and I couldn't throw away as they were blessed (catholic guilt coming out).  Its amazing a island this small has so many churches -- but they are small. 

 

It doesn’t make sense.  I pick up bus to go 2 miles from Falmouth to Cobbs Cross @ $2.25EC (bus continues to St. Johns).  I then take bus 15 miles from there to St. Johns @ $2.75EC (about $1.25US).  This is all on the same road.  BUT if I take bus from Falmouth to St. Johns it is $3.75.

 

I go for walks with friends most days around 8ish.  This island does have wonderful hikes nearby with great vistas. This particular day I was by myself and so stopped by beach and started chatting with carib man.  We both started laughing when noticed younger men with 3 layers of baggy underwear/pants barely hanging onto butt.  He was told that this fad started in US prisons since they weren’t given belts.  I also learned that most men in Antigua don’t marry the mothers of their children if they are carib/locals but will marry if the women are from another Caribbean island.

 

Another hike I hear a distant baaaing of baby goat stuck in brush.  I release it from brush and determine its probably only 1-2 days old.  It wobbles over to me.  I notice other goats down the hill and wonder if that is where its mother is so I pick it up and bring it there.  I leave in hopes that any mother will come to the rescue.  I walk to another area and chat with the local carib women selling items and tell them my experience and ask their opinion.  They say the mother will come back after finished eating and told me not to touch the tail as the mother will smell human scent and possibly reject the baby goat.  I feel terrible as I’m sure I touched the tail.  So I start walking back, after finding a water bottle in case I need to give it something to drink.  To my relief ALL the goats including the baby are gone.  Otherwise I was going to have to go back to my childhood farming days and try to bottle feed this goat until it is old enough to eat grass.  How would I explain goat noise coming from a sailboat?

 

The 12-14' north swell is upon us now but I am tucked away safely in Antigua.  I guess this is the left over from east coast storm and finally builds as it keeps coming south. 

 

The mating season for the frigate birds is almost over.  The males are still pursuing with their bulging red breast blown up -- even though the females aren't interested -- sound familiar!!!  

 

I mentioned my elderly lady friends Christobell and Alice who both make tamarine seed jewelry in different areas of Falmouth.  One is very kind/funny and other is very guarded but still nice.  I was talking to ChristobelI and realized that she was almost out of thread so I told her that I will have Tom bring some back for her.  Next day I was biking and saw her out on front porch so stopped and she gave me this beautiful bracelet.  Prior to this, I had asked Alice if she could make me a thinner version of same bracelet but she didn’t think it was possible even after much discussion.  So I told her no worries but asked if she would think about it and I would return in a couple days.  Next visit and after more discussion she didn’t think it was possible.  I still said no worries.  Next visit she says that she made one and sold it same day as didn’t think I was coming back.  So now she thinks she may have a new bracelet to sell that other vendors aren’t making.  Our past creates our future….  I think this happens to all of us but very prevalent down here with their slavery past.

 

All the taxi drivers are men.  I approach the taxi area in Falmouth where the men are playing cards, warry bean/marble game or just chatting (patawa that I can’t understand) waiting for the next call.  I walk up and watch as I would like to learn how to play warry.  I’m chatting as they play.  Once player got called to service, I was being taught by elderly partner left behind with other drivers pitching in to help me beat him.  I suppose this was quite a sight but fun by all.

 

So that's that for THAT as a local carib marine weather man would say. 

 

Keep those emails coming as we want to stay connected...

 

 

February 16

More Tidbits about Cruising and Martinique

Decided that I would add some tidbits of amusement about cruising.

 

When you are in a country that you can’t  understand the language even grocery shopping is interesting.  I thought I was buying  frozen chicken breast and ended up with turkey wings.  Do to my frugile background I tried to cook them.   I never new that wings could be so tough.  Yogurt is difficult to find in the Caribbean and I have had minimal success in making it so the French islands are a good resource.  Since Tom likes fruit based yogurt I thought I was buying blueberry but ended up with prune.  My frugile mode  forces me to eat it and sneak it on Tom’s cereal.  So we are know regular as well.  What’s interesting is you can’t really find pork BUT you see PINK pickleded pigs snouts.  Not only is the cheese and wine reasonable but the vegees must be imported as well as you can find moist carrots, peppers and yams.  Maybe its based on the amount of rain as the other islands these item are pretty solid and not sweat.  If you didn’t cook the yams in coconut milk you would have to drink lots of water with them to swallow.

 

You know you are in a more developed carib island when you start hearing other cruisers notifying coast guard (challenge with English to French) about a jet sky drifting 5 miles out from island.   The even have pay toilets on street corners.  So Tom really had to go so off we  went to pay for a pee BUT it ate our coins and no others.  So off Tom went to find a bush anyway.  So much for civilized nature.

 

Its interesting that water is relatively cheap $.01E/liter but gas is $1.34/liter (or $7US/gallon).  So you make your dinghy trips worthwhile.  But then 1E is $2.50 US.

 

I mentioned before that Martinique has abunch of nude bathers but I had never before seen a sun shield for a penis.  So you can learn all sorts of things crusing!

 

I started yoga again but realized that with all the rain we have had we get enough exercise just in opening/closing hatches and going up/down companionway.

 

I'll try to jot down and remember to add more amusing items next issue.

 

Our Love

Rose & Tom

 

February 13

Martinique

Unbelievable – We have been in Martinique since January 4th!!  I guess we should apply for residency. You can see where we are by going to “Links” on this page.  We came here to catch up with Adventure Bound before they moved north to British Virgin Islands, then met up with Rain as they were coming south and then decided we might as well stay here since Paul/Vicki were coming Feb 4th.  We have had a great time and really enjoying this island/culture – even though we can’t speak French. We will leave once receive part and wind dies down as its REALLY blowing currently.  Below are some thoughts about our time spent there and what we have been doing.

 

Paul/Vicki came to share our cruising adventure from Feb 4-12th.  We had a great time and showed them all the good parts of cruising (great hikes, snorkeling, cruisers beach parties, car touring, sailing in squalls, carnival, small projects, southern cross/north star/big dipper viewing, Mexican train dominos game, topless women and bottomless male sun bathers, Mount Pelee, etc.).  It was abit of a scramble the day before they arrived as our eMachine power supply took a spike at internet cafe and so found parts (by walking all over Fort de France) to fix but blew up again. The next day we found another USA cruiser friend coming back down so (as it was carnival and most things shut down) begged to use the Haggen Das cafe for internet to order spare as the plug in is specific to eMachine. Only to find out the next day that cruiser decided to move to different address so had to scramble to Skype (phone) company to get them to ship to new address.  Then had to load drivers from internet (as we thought we had the CD but couldn't find) and setup MaxSea for our nav charting and electronic charts (initially wouldn't work). Because it was carnival and no buses/taxis run in Fort de France (main town) where we were anchored, we moved to anchorage over by airport (Le Lamentin) in hopes that it wasn't a long walk to airport and then catch taxi back.  A taxi costs $20 Euro ($30US) to go 3-4 miles.  The US policies are killing our budget in the French Euro Carib countries.  With my limited French I was able to hitch a ride to airport.  So another successful cruisers day with what we have to do to resolve stuff that land lubbers take for granted.

 

Martinique (supported by France) is a progressive/wealthy Carib island compared to the rest.  The parks and roads are well maintained and marked to make it easy even in French to get around.  The public transportation is abit expensive and easy to understand.  But cheaper to buddy up with another cruiser and rent a car to tour island for $25E (if rent in advance).  The views are beautiful both hiking and driving.  We buy a baguette, wine, cheese and pate before and then can stop at any view to have lunch.  It appears the French government is starting to farm melons using modern terracing techniques.  It’s lovely to see dairy/animal farms and so appreciate the ability to buy yogurt.  I didn't realize till just recently that most of the carib islands sell veggies mostly at the open air markets and NOT at the grocery stores and that they can be so different from the British islands (carrots and sweet potatoes are DRY/sour).  We also realized that most marinas won't charge for water if you buy any amount of fuel but regardless it's only .01E/liter.  They even recycle most things including used oil here which is very refreshing.  The snorkeling isn’t great as this area is mostly fished out via nets and chicken wire/wood frame traps.  I rescued some fish that were inside an abandoned trap by inverting the entrance channel. 

 

I like to attend Catholic Church in most islands.  Well I went when there was a festival to bless a new connection road in front of church by having a parade after church.  It was crowded and I got pushed deep into a bench so had to wait till communion to get out.  Felt like old times!  The mass was in French and felt like the old style Latin.

 

This was our first carnival (4 days before Ash Wednesday/Lent) so was nice to share it with Paul/Vicki.  Plus Tom celebrated his 56th birthday during this event.  The parades were abet unorganized but what would you expect in the islands.  The French Caribs however move abit faster than the British Caribs and therefore see more Caucasian color.  We celebrated in the main city of Fort de France by anchoring outside the city.  Most stores were shut down the entire time and events would start at 3pm.  Each parade seemed to have the same groups but dressed differently based on the daily event.  Paul/Vicki came with red devil masts, horns and clothing so that allowed us to fit in on that day.   There is lots of partying and men/women cross dressers so made it most interesting.  It seemed that most parade groups had a following as MANY groupies would follow.  They would go around and around the same parade route up until around 10-11pm and then drummers would slowly calm down.  I’m sure the partying continued but we were well in bed by then.  We participated in the black/white devil burning in a smaller town of St. Anne where a lot of cruisers hang out. 

 

We see a lot of topless ladies on boats (mostly French) and bottomless males at beaches which is NOT the norm at other Carib islands. Some of them should leave there clothes on however!  Another cruiser told us that some call them "knitters" as they are usually doing this on the beach while topless.  Most of them are from mainland France on vacation as you can get a direct flight from Paris to Fort de France.  All ages partake in this clothing activity.

 

Prior to all these events, Tom/I got stuck in a somewhat nerve racking event in a small narrow anchorage with LOTS of small fishing boats around us. The north swell caught us earlier than expected.  Around 10pm we were awakened by French men yelling at us and moving their fishing boats from one side of anchorage to other – closer to us.  We knew it was too late to move even if we could.  The swell was pushing us closer to shore – there was minimal wind pushing us offshore so we motored back to drop a stern anchor in hopes that it would catch.  It did but our minds wouldn’t shut down as the noise increased from the volume of water rushing on the rocky edges and beach.  We both were trying to sleep but mostly thinking of how we were going to get out of here in the AM once we could see and not wrap a line around our prop or get pushed into shore when pulling anchors.  We were blessed and all worked out but we were exhausted and moved to a quiet anchorage protected from the swell and took a nap. 

 

It’s so different this year as we keep meeting up with cruiser friends from last year and continue to meet new ones.  So it gives our relationship some diversions which is nice.   

 

We love to hear from you about your lives so email a small clip whenever you can.  We plan to go as far north as Antiqua by mid April for the classic boat race and then move faster toward Venezuela to possibly go up Orinoco River to visit Wareo Indians that speak some mixed Spanish.  So I need to pick up my pace of learning Spanish.  I did start doing Yoga but now need to pick that back up.  Don't let ANYONE steal your dream!  I read emails from sister Theresa in COLD Fairbanks, Alaska searching for northern lights and freezing -- so life is diverse.

 

Our Love Always

Rose & Tom 

 

December 27

Bequia

We are still anchored in Admiralty Bay, Bequia for a few more days.   It is one of the many islands of St. Vincent and the Grenadines.  Our current position is N 13.00.66 latitude and W 061.14.49 longitude – if you want to use Google Earth to see where we are at.  OR you can go to the "Links" section to locate us.

 

Below are the highlights of being at Bequia during holidays.

 

-          First time since leaving MN that we paid for an internet connection $30US/week so we could Skype friends/family over internet.  It costs us $.02/minute to call via Skype – check it out.  This is also why I am updating website before it runs out.

 

-          Attended St. Michaels Catholic service with funny priest from Trinidad and lively bango drum music.  Still not as lively as the caribs would like but you know the Catholic way!   Also went caroling at an Anglican church but very traditional and mostly caucasian.

 

-          Organized many domino/card games with other cruisers.  Participated in a couple sunset dinghy drift socials, very fun.  Lots of European cruisers arriving from the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) as believe this year was the largest (240 boats?).  The NE Christmas/Azores High winds keep us cool and batteries charged.  Two days before x-mas they layed down and boy did the boats arrive in Bequia.  Not every culture has similar anchoring protocol so can be a challenge, especially if near the beach.

 

-          Attended a primary school Christmas concert/play.  The people are friendly and small villages are competing with each other in their holiday lighting display & celebrations.  In addition, the visiting cruiseship’s and cruisers like us have been lighting up the harbor with their myriad of lights. Continue to search for eggs/butter as it’s a commodity.

 

-          They celebrate the 9 days before x-mas by playing LOUD DJ music from midnight to 6am.  The bass sounds almost shake the boat and force us to wear ear plugs, close hatches and turn on fan for white noise.  Fortunately its not always near our anchorage. The local vocal and steel pan drum bands are delightful.

 

-          The whaling season is coming up in Jan/Feb by Paget Farms – other side of island. The whaling station is on a separate island near there. They use non-motorized small boats to catch and then drag for processing to this whaling station. Some camp there in order to get any meat. This area is also a big fishing area where they use small wooden colorful rowing/sailing boats.  I was told that most of the fish goes to Martinique BUT they won't accept the fish from Bequia unless they are inspected in Grenada.  So the fisherman offload to a larger wooden sailboat that takes the fish to Grenada to be inspected prior to then sailing back up to Martinique (as they are fished out).  So very few actually stay on Bequia.  So they said I need to go to the other side and put in my order once the wind dies down and they will make it happen -- its about $8EC/pound.

 

-          We hiked to Spring/Industry to visit Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, since 1995 Orton Brother King has protected the endangered Hawksbill.  We also hiked to past Friendship Bay to St. Hilaire’s Pt where it used to be goat grazing fields so is very lovely with many vistas.

 

-          Watched locals participate in a model sailboat regatta where they follow them via kayak around the bay to tack if they run into other anchored boats. Very entertaining!

 

-          Had BLACK drain oil twice get on our hull.  The second time we involved the harbor master/etc. and determined that it was coming from the bildge of a large power boat.  So they left the harbor but left us to clean/wax/etc.  Rose got haircut from local Barber @ $15EC/$6US so somewhat tense but turned out fine.

 

Happy NEW YEAR and God Bless the entire world, no exceptions!  Live your Dreams......

 

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